Yves Saint Laurent
Born 1936 · Age 89
French fashion designer; founder of the Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) fashion house; credited with introducing women's tuxedo ('Le Smoking'), popularizing ready-to-wear in French couture, and widely regarded as one of the foremost 20th-century designers.
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Life & Career Timeline
Birth in Oran, French Algeria
Born Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent in Oran to Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent.
Early design practice — making paper dolls and dresses
By his early teens Yves Saint Laurent designed intricate paper dolls and created dresses for his mother and sisters — formative creative development.
Wins International Wool Secretariat design competition (first time)
Submitted three sketches to the International Wool Secretariat contest and won first place, earning an invitation to Paris and the attention of Vogue's Michel de Brunhoff.
Visit to Paris & meeting Michel de Brunhoff
Attended the awards ceremony in Paris; met Michel de Brunhoff (French Vogue editor) who encouraged him to pursue fashion and introduced him into Parisian circles.
Enrolled at Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
Entered formal fashion training at the Chambre Syndicale (the trade council that trains haute couture personnel).
Graduated top of class and won the International Wool Secretariat contest again
Graduated top of his class at the Chambre Syndicale and in the same year won the International Wool Secretariat competition, reportedly beating Fernando Sánchez and Karl Lagerfeld.
Introduced to Christian Dior and hired
Michel de Brunhoff recognized similarities between Yves's sketches and Dior's aesthetic and sent him to Christian Dior, who hired him shortly thereafter.
Dior names Saint Laurent as successor (announced to his mother)
Christian Dior reportedly told Yves's mother that he had chosen Yves Saint Laurent to succeed him as head designer.
Death of Christian Dior; Saint Laurent becomes head designer
Christian Dior died in October 1957; at age 21 Yves Saint Laurent became head designer of the House of Dior.
Spring 1958 'Trapeze' collection for Dior
Saint Laurent's first collection for Dior (spring 1958) — the trapeze line — was a commercial and critical success credited with helping save the house.
Marc Bohan hired to assist at Dior
Marc Bohan was appointed to assist Saint Laurent at Dior as pressure and controversy mounted around some of the young designer's collections.
Designs wedding dress for Farah Diba
Chosen to design the wedding dress of Farah Diba (later Empress of Iran) for her marriage to the Shah of Iran.
Controversial 1959 collections (hobble skirts, varied silhouettes)
Saint Laurent's later Dior collections (1959) featured skirt shapes that were considered too short or restrictive by some critics; mixed press followed.
Conscripted into French Army; hospitalization and psychiatric treatment
Conscripted for service during the Algerian War; after hazing and stress he was admitted to military hospitals, given sedatives, psychoactive drugs and electroshock therapy — a period he later linked to lifelong mental illness and addiction.
Replaced at Dior by Marc Bohan
While Saint Laurent was hospitalized he was informed that he had been fired and Marc Bohan had been appointed to replace him at Dior.
Release from hospital and lawsuit vs Christian Dior
After release from hospital he sued Dior for breach of contract (case following his dismissal) and ultimately won — enabling financial independence to start his own house.
Founded Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) with Pierre Bergé
Saint Laurent and partner Pierre Bergé launched the eponymous fashion house with financial backing from American J. Mack Robinson, cosmetics company Charles of the Ritz, and others.
Debut spring 1962 collection for his own house
Yves Saint Laurent's debut collection as an independent designer (spring 1962) was noted for its suits and early cut-out/brassière details; reviews were mixed but promising.
Fall 1962 collection acclaimed
YSL's second collection (fall 1962) was celebrated — frequently compared to Givenchy and considered among the best in Paris that season.
Introduces/Popularizes beatnik look & pea coats
Contributed to and popularized trends including the beatnik aesthetic and pea coats around 1962.
Smock tops trend (1962–63)
Developed smock tops as a fashion trend in 1962–63 period (linked to earlier fishing smock inspirations).
Introduced thigh-high boots (with Roger Vivier)
Thigh-high boots became popular on runways (1963) via Saint Laurent's collaboration with shoe designer Roger Vivier.
Fragrance 'Y' launched (brand expansion — fragrance noted by Britannica)
YSL expanded into fragrances; notable perfumes include 'Y' (1964), 'Rive Gauche' (1971), and 'Opium' (1977) as key product launches for the brand.
Mondrian collection (1965) — major iconic collection
Created the famous 1965 Mondrian dress collection, an acclaimed modernist series referencing Piet Mondrian's artwork.
Appears as 'mystery guest' on U.S. TV show 'What's My Line?'
Made a television appearance on the American game show 'What's My Line?' on 24 October 1965.
Introduced 'Le Smoking' women's tuxedo
Debuted 'Le Smoking' — the tailored tuxedo for women — a landmark design widely credited with changing women's formalwear.
Opens first YSL Rive Gauche store (rue de Tournon) — first customer Catherine Deneuve
The first Rive Gauche ready-to-wear boutique opened on rue de Tournon in Paris; Catherine Deneuve was the first customer. This was the start of YSL's major prêt-à-porter expansion.
YSL Rive Gauche prêt-à-porter house expansion; safari jacket trend (1967)
Expanded focus toward ready-to-wear with the Rive Gauche line and popularized safari jackets for men and women.
Publishes 'La Vilaine Lulu'
Éditions Tchou published Saint Laurent's collection of comic strips La Vilaine Lulu (inspired by sketches since 1956).
First men's ready-to-wear collection
Presented his first men's ready-to-wear collection as his personal wardrobe and societal changes influenced his approach.
Controversial 'Libération' / 1940s-inspired couture collection (spring 1971)
Devoted a couture collection to 1940s styles, sparking controversy for perceived romanticization of wartime utilitarian looks.
Poses nude for Pour Homme fragrance campaign
Posed for a natural-looking nude photograph used in advertising for his Pour Homme men's fragrance.
Romantic split from Pierre Bergé (remain business partners)
Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé ended their romantic relationship but continued as business partners managing the YSL enterprise.
Late-1970s purchase of Château Gabriel (Benerville-sur-Mer)
Saint Laurent and Bergé bought and redecorated Château Gabriel, commissioning Jacques Grange to design interiors inspired by Marcel Proust.
Introduces prominent shoulder-padded styles
Initiated the strong-shouldered silhouettes that would define much of 1980s fashion.
Acquires Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech (ownership begins c.1980)
Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé acquired the Majorelle Garden in Marrakech, a later place of inspiration and where his ashes would be scattered.
International Fashion Award from the CFDA
Received the International Fashion Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
First living designer with a solo exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York staged a solo retrospective of Saint Laurent's work — a first for a living fashion designer.
Receives 'Oscar de la mode' (Oscars de la Mode) / continued high recognition
Awarded the Oscar de la Mode; event attended by celebrities (photo reference with Catherine Deneuve at Opéra Garnier).
Disastrous 1987 New York prêt-à-porter show and turnover of the ready-to-wear line
After a badly received New York prêt-à-porter show (featuring $100,000 jeweled casual jackets days after Black Monday crash), Saint Laurent handed control of the prêt-à-porter line to his assistants.
Sold ready-to-wear business to Gucci (reported ~$1 billion)
The ready-to-wear part of the Yves Saint Laurent business was reportedly sold to Gucci for about USD 1 billion; a major commercial exit for the brand's owners.
Award of Honor (museum cites 1999)
Received an Award of Honor in 1999 (recognized by Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris and related sources).
Awarded Commander of the Légion d'Honneur; receives Rosa d'Oro
French President Jacques Chirac awarded him the rank of Commander of the Légion d'Honneur; he also received the Rosa d'Oro in 2001.
Creates foundation with Pierre Bergé (YSL heritage foundation)
With Pierre Bergé he established a foundation/museum project in Paris to document the house of YSL — a collection of thousands of objects and garments.
Retirement and final show
Presented his final show (January 2002 cited) and retired from fashion; the couture house was eventually shut down in the retirement process.
Awarded Grand Officier de la Légion d'Honneur
French President Nicolas Sarkozy awarded Saint Laurent the rank of Grand officier de la Légion d'Honneur.
Enters PACS (civil union) with Pierre Bergé (shortly before death)
According to reporting, Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé entered into a Pacte civil de solidarité (PACS) a few days prior to Saint Laurent's death.
Death in Paris (brain cancer)
Died on 1 June 2008 of brain cancer; given a Catholic funeral at Église Saint-Roch; ashes scattered in the Majorelle Garden in Marrakech.
Sale controversy: two Old Summer Palace bronze heads sold for €15,745,000
Two bronze statue heads from the Old Summer Palace (rabbit and rat) sold for €15,745,000; the buyer later refused to pay for political reasons, drawing international attention.
Forbes top-earning dead celebrity (2009)
Forbes rated Yves Saint Laurent the top-earning dead celebrity in 2009, reflecting the ongoing commercial value of the brand and estate.
Christie's auction of Saint Laurent & Bergé art collection (Feb 2009) — record sales
Auction of 733 items at the Grand Palais realized €342.5 million (record for a private collection); included masterpieces (Matisse and others).
Second auction (Nov 17–20, 2009) of Bergé-Saint Laurent Normandy villa contents
Follow-up auction featured 1,185 items including Saint Laurent's last Mercedes-Benz and Hermès luggage.
François Pinault acquires and donates two Old Summer Palace bronze heads to China
François Pinault acquired the disputed bronze heads and ceremonially returned/donated them to China on 29 June 2013.
Posthumous books on YSL published (sample: 2014 onward)
Notable books about Saint Laurent and his work published posthumously, including 'Yves Saint Laurent: A Moroccan Passion' by Pierre Bergé (2014).
Multiple film portrayals and documentaries about Saint Laurent (2002–2014 highlighted)
Several films/documentaries about his life were released or received attention, including 2002 documentaries, Pierre Thoretton's L'Amour fou (2009), and two 2014 dramatic films 'Yves Saint Laurent' and 'Saint Laurent'.
Museums dedicated to YSL opened (Paris and Marrakech projects cited)
A museum dedicated to his work opened in his former haute couture house in Paris (and another project in Marrakech by Studio KO) showcasing his legacy.
Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées exhibition across six Parisian institutions
A major 2022 exhibition 'Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées' took place simultaneously across six Paris museums, highlighting his ties to the art world.
Childhood home in Oran converted into Yves Saint Laurent museum
The house where he lived until age 18 in Oran was purchased and transformed into a museum displaying around 400 sketches and photographs; opened in 2022.
Key Achievement Ages
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